Maria Grazia Chiuri was living in a blue world for her sophomore collection at Christian Dior. Moody lighting and a runway painted in shades of cobalt and navy set the scene for attendees, with models emerging onto the catwalk from a thick wave of fog. The collection itself consisted of looks done primarily in deep hues of navy, an ode to Christian Dior’s legacy, as he once wrote, “Among all colors, navy blue is the only one which can ever compete with black.” In Chiuri’s collection, black and navy weren’t competing as much as they were shown in unison, all the models sported black leather berets as they paraded down the runway, with soft waves peeking out below them.
This time around you couldn’t find the strong political statements shown in her Spring collection (think the “We Should all be Feminists” t-shirt), rather they were sprinkled throughout as Chiuri opted for more subtle statements. On their seats guests could find a white bandana carrying the message: “Feminist: a person who believes in the social, political and economic equality of the sexes.” This small gift was undoubtedly a part of The Business of Fashion’s #TiedTogether initiative which was launched just before fashion month started.
There was a keen juxtaposition of the masculine and feminine, oftentimes meeting in the middle and creating the idea of a modern day suffragette. Strong blazers in navy taffeta were paired with pleated culottes of the same fabric, then later shown with sheer tulle skirts of full figure and ankle grazing length. Her desire to appeal to the millennial generation prompted most, if not all, of the looks to be styled with fishnet tights and delicate chokers. The models makeup was kept fresh with bold brows and little else. Chiuri also noted that she took inspiration from workers uniforms, an inspiration reflected in her denim looks – which included a boxy utility jumpsuit – all in classic indigo washes and relaxed fits.
The eveningwear pieces sprinkled throughout the show were gorgeously embellished with sequins, crystals, even cosmic scenes painted onto rich midnight velvet. One completely sheer dress depicting the phases of the moon particularly stood out among the rest, along with a black satin bustier dress featuring a similar astrological theme in shimmering gold. One can only wonder if inspiration was taken from Van Gogh’s famous painting, “Starry Night.”
Chiuri’s vision of blue held clear messages that there is something for everyone, whether it is a slouchy Canadian tuxedo or a ruffled tulle gown. She has also shown us that navy blue can be just as edgy and modern as black, not just a color for prep school uniforms.